Fashion, Desire and Anxiety: Image and Morality in the Twentieth Century

161 Pages·2001·5.37 MB·English

by  Rebecca Arnold

FASHION, DESIRE
AND ANXIETY:
IMAGE AND
MORALITY IN THE
20TH CENTURY
Rebecca Arnold
I.B. Tauris Publishers
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FASHION, DESIRE AND ANXIETY
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AND
IMAGE AND MORALITY IN THE 20TH CENTURY
REBECCA ARNOLD
I.B.TAURIS Publishers
LONDON • NEW YORK
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Published in 2001 by I.B.Tauris & Co Ltd
6 Salem Road, London W2 4BU
175 Fifth Avenue, New York NY 10010
www.ibtauris.com
Copyright © Rebecca Arnold, 2001
The right of Rebecca Arnold to be identified as the author of this
book has been asserted by the author in accordance with the
Copyright, Design and Patents Act 1988.
All rights reserved. Except for brief quotations in a review, this book,
or any part thereof, may not be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a
retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written
permission of the publisher.
ISBN 1-86064-555-0
A full CIP record for this book is available from the British Library
Typeset by The Midlands Book Typesetting Company, Loughborough, Leicestershire
Printed and bound in Great Britain
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Contents
List of illustrations vii
Acknowledgements ix
Introduction xiii
One: Status, Power and Display 1
Excess 4
Cruelty and Power 12
Simplicity 17
Imperfection 22
Eco 26
Two: Violence and Provocation 32
Ultra Style/Ultra Violence 34
Gangsters 37
Gangstas 40
Skinheads 42
Punks 45
Heroin Chic 48
Decadence and Decay 55
Three: The Eroticised Body 63
Underwear as Outerwear 66
Eroticism 71
Fetish 77
The Brutalised Body 80
Flesh 89
Skin 95
Four: Gender and Subversion 99
New Woman 102
Dressing Up: Woman 106
Dressing Up: Man 111
Unisex 118
Androgyny 122
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Conclusion 125
Notes 127
Bibliography: Books 134
Journals 136
Newspapers and Magazines 137
Filmography 139
Index 141
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Illustrations
1. Moschino, spring/summer 1991
2. Christian Dior ‘mystère’ coat, 1947
3. Marks & Spencer’s man’s dress shirt, second-hand Levi’s 501 jeans, Hérmès scarves,
Gucci loafers, belt and key-rings, 1987
4. Valentino Menswear, autumn/winter 1997/8
5. Claire McCardell wool-knit day dress, c.1950
6. Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton, autumn/winter 1998/9
7. Alberta Feretti shredded top, Gianni Versace trousers, 1998
8. Vivienne Westwood, Buffalo Girl, autumn/winter 1982/3
9. Katherine Hamnett, spring/summer 1994
10. Red or Dead, spring/summer 1996
11. Skinhead photographed outside the Last Resort, a skinhead shop in Petticoat Lane,
London, 1981
12. Punk girls at West Runton Pavilion, Cromer, Norfolk, c.1979
13. Antonio Berardi, autumn/winter 1997/8
14. Yves Saint Laurent, evening ensembles, 1976/7
15. Charles Jourdan advertising image, published as a promotional postcard 1975
16. John Galliano for Dior, autumn/winter 1998/9
17. Alexander McQueen for Givenchy, autumn/winter 1997/8
18. Damien Hirst, Isolated Elements Swimming in the Same Direction for the Purpose of
Understanding, 1991
19. Martin Margiela, La Maison Martin Margiela: (9/4/1615) exhibition, Museum
Boijmans Van Beuningen, Rotterdam, 11th June–17th August 1997
20. Comme des Garçons, autumn/winter 1994/5
21. Comme des Garçons, autumn/winter 1994/5
22. Comme des Garçons, autumn/winter 1994/5
23. Dolce & Gabbana, autumn/winter 1991/2
24. Madeleine Vionnet, black lace evening gown, 1939
25. Miu Miu, spring/summer 1997
26. Nova, November 1966
27. Jean Paul Gaultier, autumn/winter 1987/8
28. Kristen McMenemy, 1996
29. John Galliano autumn/winter 1988/9
30. Alexander McQueen spring/summer 1996
31. Shaune Leane facial jewellery for Alexander McQueen, 1997
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32. Jenny Saville, Trace, 1993
33. Comme des Garçons spring/summer 1997
34. Rifat Ozbek, spring/summer 1993
35. Warehouse pedal-pushers, Rebecca Moses cashmere vest, Gina couture sandals,
1998
36. Katherine Hamnett, Power Dressing collection, spring/summer 1986
37. Blumarine, autumn/winter 1994/5
38. John Galliano, spring/summer 1992
39. George Bryan ‘Beau’ Brummell, 1805
40. Vivienne Westwood, Pirates collection (London, World’s End), 1980
41. Paul Smith, autumn/winter 1998/9
42. Gucci, autumn/winter 1996/7
43. Gucci, autumn/winter 1996/7
44. Anne Demeulemeester, autumn/winter 1995/6
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Acknowledgements
This project would not have been possible without the help and enthusiasm of all my
friends, colleagues and family and, although I cannot name all of them here, their
encouragement has been greatly appreciated. First, I would like to thank my editor,
Philippa Brewster at I.B.Tauris, for her constant support and excellent advice and
comments on my text. I am indebted to Aileen Ribeiro for suggesting the idea for the
project and encouraging me with its progress and Valerie Cumming for helping me in
the early stages of its development. My thanks also to my colleagues in the Cultural
Studies department at Central Saint Martin’s College of Art and Design for their words
of encouragement and to all the students there and at the Surrey Institute of Art and
Design for contributing with such enthusiasm to my seminars based on this research.
Central Saint Martin’s also provided me with research funding to help obtain illustra-
tions for this book, for which I must thank Jane Rapley, Malcolm Le Grice and Caroline
Dakers. I especially want to thank Beatrice Behlen, Caroline Evans, Linda Sandino,
Andrea Stuart and Alison Toplis for uncomplainingly giving up so much of their time to
read drafts and offer crucial advice, criticism and encouragement, their friendship,
support and inspiration has been invaluable. Finally, my thanks to Adrian Garvey and
Mary Arnold for their patience, understanding and support throughout this project. This
book would not have been the same without the contributions and suggestions of all
these people.
Picture Acknowledgements
I am very grateful to Susan Lawson for her patience and persistence in gaining permis-
sions for many of these photographs. My thanks also to all the photographers who have
allowed me to use their photographs in this book, particularly Niall McInerney for his
unfailing help and generosity. I would also like to thank the following people who
helped in the obtaining of pictures: Philippe Garner, Martin Harrison, Olivia Funnell at
Z, Kate at Sean Ellis, Jacqueline at Streeters and John Parkinson at the John Parkinson
agency.
ix Acknowledgements