How baking works

531 Pages·2011·35.03 MB·English

by  Paula Figoni

Baking & Pastry
An up-to-date,
how
comprehensive guide

bak ing
to understanding and applying
food science bakeshop
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to the
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The essence of baking is chemistry, and anyone who wants to be a master pastry chef must
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understand the principles and science that make baking work. This book explains the whys and works
hows of every chemical reaction, essential ingredient, and technique, revealing the complex
mysteries of bread loaves, pastries, and everything in between. Among other additions, How
THIRD
b
Baking Works, Third Edition includes an all-new chapter on baking for health and wellness, with EDITION
detailed information on using whole grains, allergy-free baking, and reducing salt, sugar, and fat
a
in a variety of baked goods. This detailed and informative guide features:
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(cid:129) An introduction to the major ingredient groups, including sweeteners, fats, milk, and leavening
agents, and how each affects fi nished baked goods
i
(cid:129) Practical exercises and experiments that vividly illustrate how different ingredients function n
(cid:129) Photographs and illustrations that show the science of baking at work
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(cid:129) End-of-chapter discussion and review questions that reinforce key concepts and test learning

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For both practicing and future bakers and pastry chefs, How Baking Works, Third Edition offers
an unrivaled hands-on learning experience.
o
Paula Figoni
is a food scientist and associate professor at the International Baking and
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Pastry Institute in the College of Culinary Arts at Johnson & Wales University in Providence,
k
Rhode Island. She has more than ten years of experience in product development and food
science at The Pillsbury Company and Ocean Spray Cranberries, Inc.
s
THIRD
$45.00 USA/$54.00 CAN
Cover Design: Suzanne Sunwoo EDITION
Cover Photograph: ©Getty Images
paula figoni
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how
baking
works
THIRD
EDITION
Exploring the Fundamentals of Baking Science
paula figoni
JOHN WILEY & SONS, INC.
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This book is printed on acid-free paper.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All rights reserved.
Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey
Published simultaneously in Canada
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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data:
Figoni, Paula.
How baking works : exploring the fundamentals of baking science / Paula Figoni. -- 3rd ed.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 978-0-470-39267-6 (pbk.); ISBN 978-0-470-39813-5 (ebk.)
1. Baking. I. Title.
TX763.F54 2011
641.8’15--dc22
2010006497
Printed in the United States of America
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
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Contents
PREFACE vii
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS xi
1 Introduction to Baking 1
Introduction 2 Baker’s Percentages 9
The Importance of Accuracy in the Bakeshop 2 The Importance of Controlling Ingredient
Balances and Scales 3 Temperatures 11
Units of Measure 5 The Importance of Controlling Oven
Weight and Volume Measurements 5 Temperatures 12
The Difference Between Weight Ounces and Questions for Review 14
Fluid Ounces 7 Questions for Discussion 14
The Difference Between Density and Thickness 8 Exercises and Experiments 15
2 Heat Transfer 19
Introduction 20 Questions for Discussion 26
Methods of Heat Transfer 20 Exercises and Experiments 27
Questions for Review 26
3 Overview of the Baking Process 33
Introduction 34 Stage III: Cooling 44
Setting the Stage for Success 34 Questions for Review 45
Stage I: Mixing 36 Questions for Discussion 46
Stage II: Baking 38 Exercises and Experiments 46
4 Sensory Properties of Food 57
Introduction 58 Questions for Review 70
Appearance 58 Questions for Discussion 71
Flavor 61 Exercises and Experiments 71
Texture 68
iii
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5 Wheat Flour 79
Introduction 80 Types of Patent Wheat Flours 91
The Wheat Kernel 80 Other Wheat Flours 94
Makeup of Flour 82 Functions of Flour 96
Classifying Wheat 83 Storage of Flours 98
Particle Size 84 Questions for Review 99
Flour and Dough Additives and Treatments 85 Questions for Discussion 101
Commercial Grades of White Flours 89 Exercises and Experiments 101
6 Variety Grains and Flours 117
Introduction 118 Questions for Review 126
Cereal Grains 118 Questions for Discussion 126
Alternative Wheat Grains 122 Exercises and Experiments 127
Cereal-Free Grains and Flours 123
7 Gluten 135
Introduction 136 Dough Relaxation 150
The Formation and Development of Gluten 136 Questions for Review 152
Determining Gluten Requirements 138 Questions for Discussion 153
Controlling Gluten Development 140 Exercises and Experiments 154
8 Sugar and Other Sweeteners 163
Introduction 164 Functions of Sweeteners 186
Sweeteners 164 Storage and Handling 191
Dry Crystalline Sugars 167 Questions for Review 193
Syrups 173 Questions for Discussion 194
Specialty Sweeteners 183 Exercises and Experiments 195
9 Fats, Oils, and Emulsifiers 213
Introduction 214 Storage and Handling 238
Chemistry of Fats, Oils, and Emulsifi ers 214 Questions for Review 239
Processing of Fats and Oils 217 Questions for Discussion 240
Fats and Oils 221 Exercises and Experiments 241
Functions of Fats, Oils, and Emulsifi ers 233
iv CONTENTS
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10 Eggs and Egg Products 257
Introduction 258 More on Aeration: Meringue 272
The Makeup of an Egg 258 Storage and Handling 275
Commercial Classifi cation of Shell Eggs 261 Questions for Review 277
Egg Products 263 Questions for Discussion 278
Functions of Eggs 265 Exercises and Experiments 279
More on Coagulation: Basic Egg Custard 269
11 Leavening Agents 299
Introduction 300 Storage and Handling 313
The Process of Leavening 300 Questions for Review 314
Leavening Gases 301 Questions for Discussion 315
Yeast Fermentation 304 Exercises and Experiments 315
Chemical Leaveners 308
12 Thickening and Gelling Agents 323
Introduction 324 Functions of Thickening and Gelling Agents 336
The Process of Thickening and Gelling 324 Storage and Handling 338
Gelatin 325 Questions for Review 340
Vegetable Gums 328 Questions for Discussion 341
Starches 330 Exercises and Experiments 342
13 Milk and Milk Products 355
Introduction 356 Functions of Milk and Milk Products 365
Common Commercial Processes to Milk and Storage and Handling 366
Milk Products 356 Questions for Review 368
Makeup of Milk 358 Questions for Discussion 368
Milk Products 359 Exercises and Experiments 369
14 Nuts and Seeds 377
Introduction 378 Storage and Handling 384
Composition of Nuts, Kernels, and Seeds 378 Questions for Review 386
Cost 379 Questions for Discussion 386
Common Nuts, Kernels, and Seeds 380 Exercises and Experiments 387
Toasting Nuts 383
CONTENTS v
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15 Cocoa and Chocolate Products 395
Introduction 396 Storage 417
Cocoa Beans 396 Questions for Review 418
Common Cocoa and Chocolate Products 399 Questions for Discussion 419
Handling Chocolate Products 412 Exercises and Experiments 420
Functions of Cocoa and Chocolate Products 414
16 Fruit and Fruit Products 427
Introduction 428 Storage and Handling 439
How Fruit is Purchased 428 Questions for Review 441
Common Fruits 434 Questions for Discussion 442
Fruit Ripening 437 Exercises and Experiments 442
17 Natural and Artificial Flavorings 453
Introduction 454 Storage and Handling 463
A Brief Review of Flavor 454 Questions for Review 464
Flavor Profi les 454 Questions for Discussion 464
Types of Flavorings 455 Exercises and Experiments 465
Evaluating New Flavorings 462
18 Baking for Health and Wellness 471
Introduction 472 Food Allergies 481
Healthful Baking with the Customer in Mind 472 Questions for Review 487
Guidelines for a Healthful Diet 473 Exercises and Experiments 487
Strategies for Healthful Baking 475
APPENDIX 499
BIBLIOGRAPHY 503
ILLUSTRATION CREDITS 504
INDEX 505
vi CONTENTS
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Preface
Years ago, there was only one way to become a baker convinced that today, skills are not enough. I have faith
or pastry chef, and that was to apprentice with a master that the knowledge of the food scientist can help in
craftsman. The apprentice learned by doing, repeating facing the challenges in the bakeshop. Finally, I have
the necessary skills, year after year, until the skills were conviction that this knowledge is useful for the beginner
mastered. If bakers and pastry chefs understood their as well as the master.
ingredients or why they did what they did, it was only The food scientist uncovers how different ingredi-
after years of experience. Mostly they knew what to ents are processed, views ingredients as made of indi-
do because they did what they had been shown, and vidual components, and views processes and procedures
it worked. in the bakeshop in terms of interactions between these
Today bakers and pastry chefs have more challenges. components. If ingredients can be viewed in this way,
They must master more skills. They must adapt to faster- their behavior in the bakeshop begins to make more
changing trends. They must learn to use a wider array of sense. How they will react under new conditions and
ingredients from different cultures. They must learn to new situations can be predicted better, and failures in
use still more ingredients devised in the chemist’s lab. the bakeshop can be averted. The goal of this book is
They must learn all this in a shorter length of time. to share the views of the food scientist with bakers and
Baking and pastry programs in colleges and uni- pastry chefs. Yet I have tried to keep this book focused
versities are laying the foundation to meet these new on the interests and needs of beginning and practicing
challenges. Part of this foundation includes applying bakers and pastry chefs. The only theories presented are
the knowledge of science to the bakeshop. The purpose those necessary to better understand that which will be
of How Baking Works, Third Edition is to help lay this immediately useful in the bakeshop.
foundation. Yet I’m sure some might wonder if this Beyond the practical usefulness of science, there is
knowledge is necessary, even helpful. After all, isn’t it a beauty to it, a beauty best appreciated when science
enough to learn the skills of the bakeshop? is applied to the everyday world. I hope that this book
After years of working with experienced bakers and allows those who might not yet see this beauty to at
pastry chefs and after years of training students, I am least see the possibility of it.
A Note About Temperature and
Weight Conversions
Numbers can sound deceptively precise. For instance, the The actual temperature at which yeast cells die
temperature at which yeast cells die is often cited as 140°F depends on these and other factors, and that tempera-
(60°C). But was the heat moist or dry? Was the tempera- ture is not necessarily 140°F (60°C). For this reason,
ture brought up quickly or slowly? What strain of yeast was many temperatures provided in this text are converted
used, and how much acid, salt, and sugar were present? from Fahrenheit to Celsius in ranges of fi ve degrees.
vii
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While this may appear inexact, it best refl ects the reality Likewise, weight and volume conversions are not
of the situation. necessarily given to the precise gram or milliliter. In
Other times, however, temperatures are meant to be most cases, U.S./imperial units are provided in incre-
precise. For example, it matters when proofi ng yeast ments of 0.25 ounce, while metric units are converted
dough whether the temperature is 81°F (27°C) or 85°F in increments of 5 grams or 5 milliliters. This refl ects
(29°C). In this case, temperatures are converted from the reality of the bakeshop, where most equipment
Fahrenheit to Celsius to the nearest whole degree. reads down to these increments.
Changes to the Third Edition
While the core format and theme of the text remains on eggs, for example, was moved forward, ahead of
the same, several important additions and changes have thickening and gelling agents. Likewise, the chapter
been made to the third edition of How Baking Works. on chocolate products was moved ahead of the chap-
Some of these changes are as follows: ters on fruits and on fl avorings.
(cid:129) A new chapter has been added that focuses on bak- (cid:129) Several changes were made to exercises and experi-
ing for health and wellness. This chapter (Chapter ments at the end of each chapter. First, more exer-
18) includes information on creating pastries and cises and experiments were included and many were
baked goods to improve the general health of all revised. More important, the formatting of the
consumers. It also includes information on baking experiments was improved to make the directions
for special diets, including baking for diabetics and easier to follow and the evaluation of results clearer.
those with food allergies and sensitivities. Finally, questions at the end of each exercise and
(cid:129) The chapter on fats and oils (Chapter 9) was revised experiment were rewritten to better integrate the
and enlarged to refl ect changes in the industry, which lessons of the lab with the material in the text. The
have been substantial in the few years since the pub- objective was to reinforce important points made in
lication of the second edition of this book. Many of the text with what is taught in the experiments.
these changes were precipitated by the switch away (cid:129) Many new photos, drawings, charts, and tables were
from trans fats across North America and beyond. added, and many more revised.
Besides adding more information on alternatives (cid:129) Sections including those on the tempering of choco-
to trans fats, information was included on the pro- lates and the functions of emulsifi ers were revised to
cessing of fats and oils in general to increase depth simplify explanations while still maintaining or even
of understanding. By necessity, more chemistry on improving on the integrity of the science behind the
fats and oils was included in this chapter. The text explanation. As part of this, facts, underlying details,
is still primarily for beginning students, however, and descriptions were carefully checked, and word-
so all attempts were made to isolate much of this ing throughout the text was revised accordingly.
advanced material in sidebars, separate from the (cid:129) Questions at the end of each chapter were reviewed
main text. for clarity and revised as needed; additional ques-
(cid:129) The order of chapters was altered slightly, based on tions were added to refl ect changes to the text.
the suggestions of readers and reviewers. While each
chapter was written to stand alone, some chapters An Instructor’s Manual (ISBN 978-0470-39814-2)
are more meaningful when read in the context of accompanies this book. It can be obtained by contacting
material from earlier chapters. The new ordering of your Wiley sales representative. An electronic version of
chapters capitalizes on this building of knowledge, the Instructor’s Manual is available to qualifi ed instruc-
and it also better refl ects the importance of some tors on the companion Web site, at www.wiley.com/
ingredients over others in the bakeshop. The chapter college/fi goni.
viii PREFACE
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