Pattern Fitting with Confidence

130 Pages·2009·9.366 MB·English

by  Nancy Zieman

Pattern
Sew a Perfect Fit Every Time
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Create perfectly fi tting garments every time with the tried and true TT
Fitting
techniques Nancy Zieman has crafted over the past 25 years. EE
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For beginning to advanced seamstresses, Pattern Fitting With
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Confi dence provides simple ways to achieve professional-looking

tailored jackets, dresses, pants and tops — for all body shapes.
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It includes: TT
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• Comprehensive instructions, plus exceptional illustrations to
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guide you through each stage NN

• Analysis of the design, focusing on pattern plot and manipulation GG

• Clear guidelines regarding preparation
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• Standard chart measurements i
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26 27 2829 30 Nancy Zieman’s expert advice n
1413121110 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 gives you the confi dence and fi

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know-how to create perfectly Nancy Zieman
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fi tting garments every time! n
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About the Author
Nancy Zieman is host and executive producer of PBS’
ultra-popular Sewing With Nancy television sewing
program, founder of Nancy’s Notions — a premier
mail-order catalog and retail store specializing in sewing
notions, supplies and accessories, and Executive Producer
for Nancy Zieman Productions. Nancy is the author of
Sew with Confi dence, Serge with Confi dence, Quilt with
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Confi dence, Machine Embroidery with Confi dence and
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co-author of The Art of Landscape Quilting.
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US $24.99 n
Z1084 (CAN $27.50)
ISBN-13: 978-0-89689-574-4
ISBN-10: 0-89689-574-2
52499
PC N
U A
E
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Pattern
Fitting
wwiitthh ccoonnfifi ddeennccee
Nancy Zieman
© 2009 by Nancy Zieman.
All right reserved. The patterns and drawings in this book are for personal use of the
reader. By permission of the author and publisher, they may be either hand-traced or
photocopied to make single copies, but under no circumstances may they be resold or
republished. It is permissible for the purchaser to make the projects contained herein
and sell them at fairs, bazaars and craft shows. No other part of this book may be
reproduced in any form or by an electronic or mechanical means including information
storage and retrieval systems without permission in writing from the publisher, except
by a reviewer, who may quote a brief passage in review. Published by KP Craft Books,
an imprint of F+W Publications, Inc., 4700 East Galbraith Road, Cincinnati, Ohio
45236. [phone]. First edition.
Distributed in Canada by Fraser Direct
100 Armstrong Avenue
Georgetown, ON, Canada L7G 5S4
Tel: [phone]
Distributed in the U.K. and Europe by David & Charles
Brunel House, Newton Abbot, Devon, TQ12 4PU, England
Tel: [phone], Fax: [phone]
E-mail: [email protected]
Distributed in Australia by Capricorn Link
P.O. Box 704, S. Windsor, NSW 2756 Australia
Tel: [phone]
Library of Congress Control Number: 2008925804
ISBN-13: 978-0-89689-574-4
ISBN-10: 0-89689-574-2
Edited by Jay Staten
Illustrations and Design: Laure Noe
Photographs: Dale Hall and Keith Glasgow
Nancy's Notions Editorial Staff: Pat Hahn and Diane Dhein
Manufactured in China.
13 12 11 10 09 5 4 3 2 1
Publisher’s Preface
It is our great pleasure to publish Nancy Zieman’s Pattern Fitting with Confi dence. Like the
previous books in the “with Confi dence” series, this is an easy-to-understand, easy-to-implement
guide, written by today’s foremost expert. We know you will enjoy learning the techniques that will
make your garment sewing successful every time.
Nancy Zieman celebrates the silver anniversary of her popular PBS television show Sewing with
Nancy. It is a fi tting time for this book to be published. Through 25 years, Nancy has guided her
audience through the techniques that make us all better craftspeople. Her easygoing manner and
“can do” attitude is part of every show, just has it has been part of every book she has written for
Krause Publications.
We invite you to get started with Pattern Fitting with Confi dence, making every garment a
unique, well-tailored addition to your wardrobe.
Look for Nancy’s other “with Confi dence” books:
Quilt with Confi dence
Machine Embroidery with Confi dence
Serge with Confi dence
And also
The Art of Landscape Quilting
by Nancy Zieman and Natalie Sewell
Table of Contents
Chapter One: Getting Started .........................................................................................................6
Choosing the Right Pattern Size ........................................................................................................8
Taking Accurate Measurements ........................................................................................................10
Choosing Your Pattern Type .............................................................................................................12
Comparing Measurements ................................................................................................................13
Choosing a Streamlined Style ...........................................................................................................15
Allowing Design Ease ........................................................................................................................16
Learning to Pivot and Slide ...............................................................................................................17
Chapter Two: Basic Fitting Changes ...........................................................................................18
Bustline Changes ...............................................................................................................................20
Dart Changes .....................................................................................................................................23
Hipline Changes ................................................................................................................................26
Waistline Changes .............................................................................................................................28
Sleeve Changes ...................................................................................................................................29
Shoulder Changes.............. ................................................................................................................32
Back Changes............................................................ .........................................................................38
Hemline Changes...............................................................................................................................42
Sleeve Length Changes......................................... .............................................................................44
Chapter Three: Combining Fitting Techniques.................................... ...................................46
Combining Fitting Changes on One Worksheet.............................. ................................................48
Typical Combined Fitting Changes................................................................... ...............................52
Adding Extensions.................................................................................................... .........................57
Chapter Four: Fitting Skirts................................................................... ........................................58
Waist Changes......................................................... ...........................................................................60
Waist and Waistband Changes................................................................ ..........................................62
Hip Changes.......................................................................................................................................64
Fitting for a High Hip...................................................................................................... ..................66
Hem Changes........................................................................................................ .............................67
Combining Fitting Changes ..............................................................................................................70
Chapter Five: Fitting Pants................................................................................................ .............72
Determining Size...................................................................................................................... .........74
Measuring the Pattern........................................................................................................ ...............78
First Worksheet: Hem Length Changes........................................................................ ....................82
Fitting the Side Curve.............................................................................. ..........................................84
Fitting the Crotch....................................................................................................... .......................86
Second Worksheet: Waist Width Changes................................................... .....................................92
Fitting the Hip.................................................................................... ...............................................95
Fitting the Thigh............................................................................................................... .................96
Width Combinations............................................................................................... ..........................98
Increased Waist, Hip, and Thigh Combinations......................................... ...................................100
Chapter Six: Fine-Tuning the Fit...................................................... ..........................................102
Checking the Fit............................................................................................ ...................................104
Checking for Wrinkles............................................................... ......................................................106
Fine-Tuning Pants Fitting ...............................................................................................................113
References..................................................................................... ......................................................116
Charts............................................................................................ ...................................................117
Index................................................................................................ .................................................124

chapter one
Getting
Started
Fitting is defi nitely a sewing
basic! If something doesn’t fi t,
you won’t wear it. Take a small
amount of time and follow
these step-by-step fi tting
techniques for a pattern that is
“fi t to be tried.”
Choosing the Right Pattern Size
Choosing pattern size based on bust
measurement can result in “gaposis.”
The fi rst step to pattern fi tting with
confi dence is to choose a pattern size that will
give you the best fi t. It is as simple as taking
one measurement.
Garment shoulder
The common measurement used to does not match
choose pattern size for a blouse, jacket or fi gure
top is your bust measurement. This mea-
surement is accurate if your fi gure is well
proportioned, but if your bust is large in
proportion to the rest of your body or if
you have a broad back, the bust measure- Neckline gaps
ment gives you a pattern that fi ts your bust from too
but gaps at the neckline, the shoulders and
much fabric
the armholes. “Gaposis” is a common fi tting
problem that is diffi cult to correct. The solu-
tion? Buy your pattern to fi t your shoulder
area.
Garment folds
The measurement used in this book to
determine which pattern size fi ts your shoul- at underarms
ders is the Right Size Measurement, taken
above the bustline between arm creases.
You won’t fi nd the Right Size Measurement
printed on the back of the pattern envelope,
but it’s quick to take and does not change
even if you gain or lose weight.
Note from Nancy
I fi nd the Right Size Measurement and other body measurements
a challenge to take by myself, so I use the buddy system: I call a
“sewing buddy” to help me, and I help her. This is the best way
to ensure accuracy. Be sure to take the Right Size Measurement
while you are wearing a camisole or leotard so that your arm
creases are evident.
8 Pattern Fitting with Confi dence
Right Size Measurement
• Find the crease in your skin where your
arm meets your body.
• Measure above the end of one crease
straight across the front chest to the
end of the other crease.
1 2 3 4 5 6
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 910111213141516171819202122232425262728
• Round off the measurement to the
nearest ½".
Even though the Right Size Measurement
and its corresponding sizes are not written on
the back of the pattern envelope, the sizing is
easy to remember. Misses’ size 14 equals 14",
and the sizes go up or down with every ½". For
example, if your measurement is 13½", buy a
size 12. If you measure 14½" select a size 16.
Note from Nancy
You may be pleasantly surprised by the results of the Right Size Measurement. It
is common for someone who has been sewing with a size 20 pattern in order to fi t
her bust to fi nd out she is actually a size 16!
If you are unsure which of two sizes to use, go with the smaller size. It is easier to
increase the bustline on a pattern than to decrease the shoulder and neck area.
Right Size Measurement Fitting Chart
Measurement 12" 12½" 13" 13½" 14" 14½" 15" 15½" 16" 16½" 17" 17½"
Misses’/Petites 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22
Juniors 5 7 9 11 13 15
Women’s 38 40 42 44 46 48
Getting Started 9